In August, I traveled into Mexico for a Sierra Madre Alliance Board
of Directors meeting held in a Tarahumara Eco-tourism lodge located
in Copper Canyon near the town of San Juanito, deep in the Sierra Madre.
While this was primarily a business trip, I took my binoculars, as I
knew there would be early morning opportunities for birding. I was determined
to see birds that I had not seen before.
We flew from Tucson to Los Mochis in a small private plane, then drove
to a charming Eco-tourism lodge in El Fuerte. The lodge was on a hill
overlooking the beautiful Rio Fuerte. Arriving at the lodge about 5:00pm,
our bird guide was ready and waiting to take us on a hike along the
river to ee avian exotics. At this location, I saw various herons,
ducks, cormorants, and other water birds. Seven species of hummingbirds
were observed, including a new one for me - the Cinnamon Hummingbird.
In addition to many other species I have observed before, I was happy
to see several new species, including:
- a pair of Bare-throated Tiger
Herons
- Groove-billed Ani
- Squirrel Cuckoo (a truly remarkable and beautiful
bird)
- Russet-crowned Motmot; Great Kiskadee's
- Tropical Kingbirds (very
common and abundant there)
- Rose-throated Becard; Sinaloa Crow
- Rosy-thrush
Tanager (unusual among tanagers as it forages on the ground for insects
and grubs amongst the forest litter)
- Streak-backed Orioles.
On the way to the train station the next morning, I saw a covey of
Elegant Quail, beautiful birds with cinnamon colored topknots. We boarded
the Copper Canyon (Barranca del Cobre) train for the daylong ride deep
into the Sierra Madre wilderness. Most of the passengers were European
and Japanese tourists, with some Americans and Mexican nationals as
well. The first class train was luxurious, spacious, and offered separate
dining and bar cars. However, the views along the entire ride are what
made the experience remarkable. This is perhaps the most scenic and
awe-inspiring train ride in North America. We passed dozens and dozens
of large waterfalls, went through dozens of mountain tunnels, and across
several high altitude suspension bridges. August is the height of the
monsoon season, so every arroyo and stream was flowing with fast moving
water. The Urique River flows throughout the entire length of the deep
canyon and the train runs right along the rim of the canyon, affording
spectacular views every minute of the ride.
We disembarked at the village of San Rafael where a Tarahumara welcoming
group met us and took us to their hostel at Oteviachi. This is perhaps
the single most spectacular spot I have ever seen in the Sierra Madre.
Located on the rim of the canyon, this site affords incredible views
of the river nearly two thousand feet below. Along the riverbanks are
many hot springs. Caves and cliff dwellings dot the landscape, some
within easy hiking distance. Within a mile of the lodge, there is a
1400-foot waterfall with several large swimming holes both before the
falls and below it. It was here that I saw a pair of squawking, colorful
Military Macaws (large colorful parrots). Along the trail to the waterfall,
I also saw Greater Pewee's, several wren species, and the Rufous-crowned
Warbler.
The following day, at a scenic view where the train makes a 15 minute
stop at Divisidaro (the Continental Divide), I had the good fortune
to observe the very rare Solitary Eagle. We finally arrived at San Juanito
for three days of meetings. We were put up in another Tarahumara Eco-tourism
lodge located about five miles outside the town. There, in the early
morning hours before the meetings began, Andy Miller (the SMA staff
ornithologist) and I walked the grounds and the neighboring landscape
in search of Mexican endemics not usually seen in the US. We saw several
interesting birds including:
- Cordillerian Flycatcher
- Mexican Chickadee
- Eared Trogon
- Rufus-crowned Sparrow
- Stripe-headed Sparrow
- Brown-throated
Wren
- American Dipper
- Brown Creeper
and other familiar, yet beautiful
and interesting birds such as:
- nuthatches
- towhees
- Mountain Bluebirds
- Western Tanagers
- goldfinchs
- swallows
- redstarts
- martins
- woodpeckers
- jays
- grosbeaks
- robins
- warblers
- juncos.
We began our return trip home by boarding the train at Creel (the tourist
capital of the Sierra Madre), enjoying the 10 hour ride back to Los
Mochis, and after a good night's sleep in the city's finest hotel, flying
back in a small Cessna. The plane flew along the Gulf coast for a long
way and we had the opportunity to fly at low altitude so we could observe
flocks of pelicans, see porpoises and pods of whales fishing for krill.
Landing at Tucson International, we were greeted by 106-degree heat.
The Sierra Madre was cool during the day and fireplaces in our rooms
and heavy woolen Tarahumara blankets kept us warm at night. I look forward
to returning to the vast expanses of mountains, canyons, rivers and
streams that we affectionately call the Sierra Tarahumara. If you are
interested in going down to discover this area for yourself and would
like to see photos of the areas I have described, or ask questions,
please feel free to ask me.
Long-time subscribers of this newsletter may recall past articles that
dealt with the Sierra Madre Mountains of NW MEXICO. We work with a non-profit
group, The Sierra Madre Alliance, that is devoted to improving the lives
of the indigenous Tarahumara and Tepehuan communities that have historically
and traditionally occupied this remote and rugged range of mountains,
deep canyons, and mesas. We work on gaining federal protection and conservation
of essential areas of unique biological diversity and for all the living
plants, animals, and people who live within those areas. In the past,
we have asked our subscribers to donate their old binoculars and spotting
scopes for field use by our staff of biologists and community volunteers.
Many of you donated your old optics and most of them are still in use
today. Again, we thank you for your generous contributions. We are still
training more indigenous community volunteers to conduct surveys, so
the need for optics is still great. If you would like to donate optics,
you can bring them into the store at any time. If you would like more
information on any of our programs please contact me, or if you would
like to make a tax-deductible contribution to The Sierra Madre Alliance,
Inc. - send a check (in any amount) to the Grant Road store and we will
be sure to get it where it needs to go. All contributors will receive
a thank you letter acknowledging your tax-deductible donation. |